Hraesvelg and the Ash - Eyjafjörður, Iceland

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Hraesvelg and the Ash - Eyjafjörður, Iceland

 
 
 

King Gylfi, still disguised as Gangleri, persists in his efforts. He aims to obtain as much information from the great Trinity of Gods as his trickery can muster. It's not everyday you get to chat with the masters of the cosmos (High, Just-as-High, and Third in case you forgot).

High, Just-As-High, & Third (Hár, Jafnhár, & Þriði) and Gangleri, deep in conversation (Icelandic comic strip, XVIIIth c.)

High, Just-As-High, & Third (Hár, Jafnhár, & Þriði) and Gangleri, deep in conversation (Icelandic comic strip, XVIIIth c.)

 

After hearing about the universe and creation, Gangleri finally asks a question on the lips of all travellers having braved the harsh Icelandic elements.

Whence comes the wind? It is so strong that it whips the great oceans and stirs up fire. But as strong as it is, no one can see it. It is so wondrously made.

'The Wind! Sometimes it's there, sometimes not. Where does it come from?' Gangleri scratches beard ponderously

'The Wind! Sometimes it's there, sometimes not. Where does it come from?' Gangleri scratches beard ponderously

 

Then High answered 'That I can tell you well. At the far Northern end of Heaven, sits a Giant named Hraesvelg. He is clad in eagle's feathers. And when he beats his wings to take flight, the winds arise from under them. (The Prose Edda 18.)

 
 

And so, from the northernmost part of the cosmos, Hraesvelg, 'who knows many things', sends gusts of wind rushing onto the bare Icelandic mountains. Carving the landscape even as did the sons of Bor. 

"Hraesvelg, he is called,

who sits at Heaven's End

a Giant in Eagle's shape.

From his wings it is said, the Winds

blow over all men"

(The Sybil's Prophecy. 37)

Rare stillness. A gift from the Giant in Eagle's shape

Rare stillness. A gift from the Giant in Eagle's shape

 

However, the Scandinavian scriptures tell us, Hraesvelg is not alone on the edge of the universe (which, as everyone knows, is a big tree). Between his eyes rests a hawk, Veðrfölnir, 'wind-bleached' clear and bright. Not to be confused with Odin's ravens discussed in the podcast...

And one shouldn't imagine that the feathered friends are undisturbed...

The cosmos-tree Yggdrasil leads with its roots down to three planes: the divine one, the one where matter was formed, and the evil one (respectively Æsir, 'where Ginnungagap used to be', and Niflheim). And underneath the lowest root, there where serpents abide, the monster Nidhogg gnaws at Yggdrasil. Meaning, he's biting the roots of it. Which is most probably very unpleasant for the Tree.

Munch, munch...

Munch, munch...

 

Between this lowest plane where the munching goes on, and heaven's end, a squirrelRatatosk is up to all kinds of mischief. He carries 'gossip and insults' between our winged giant and the evil monster. Yes, really. A gossiping squirrel. But to be fair to him, older sources than the very recent Prose Edda (XIIIth c.) state simply that:

'Ratatosk is the squirrel who there shall run, On the ash-tree Yggdrasil; From above the words of the eagle he bears, And tells them to Nidhogg beneath.' (Grímnismál - Poetic Edda)

Which is more straightforward and less controversial for our little friend.

In the midst of the branches, four stags rummage around 'devouring the tree's foliage'. But hey. Stags do what stags do. It's a stag's dues. There's  no stag don'ts. Just ... yes you got it. And the lads are: Dáinn, Dvalinn, Duneyrr and Duraþrór.

See if you can identify this merry band of beasts...

the whole picture.png
 

Although, actually, the god 'High' is frustratingly unclear about one point: whether Hraesvelg is that same eagle, or, if a separate eagle, non-wind-related, sits up there with a hawk between his eyes. Which would mean there would be two. So a total of four eagle wings. And lots more feathers.

This is up for debate amongst animal-scholars, and I'm just glad I got to bring up the squirrel.

Surely wider concepts hide here in the branches of Yggdrasil. Do you see in it the cosmos, a metaphor for the body, or an Scandinavian's very creative prose?

Interestingly, this representation may have been on a Road Trip of its own. These concepts seem to echo Euro-Asian mythology (see the eagle Garuda who triumphs over serpents, or also the serpent-like kundalini, both from the Hindu faith) and may have been influenced by it, as well as by Christian imagery, say the above-mentioned scholars. The disrupting serpent-beast Nidhogg resonates quite well also with the one who tempted Adam and Eve to fall out of Heaven. Food for thought no doubt. 

All in all, noble creatures and restless beasts, grace, threaten and defend the great tree of life Yggdrasil. But, it is near impossible to picture any of it being the truth behind our reality, when faced with the calm beauty of an early evening by the fjords of Eyjafjörður.

Calmness still spread over the Eyjafjörður

Calmness still spread over the Eyjafjörður

 

Thanks for reading/viewing! If you've made this far, do drop a comment! It's fantastic to know when (if?) someone actually makes it through the whole thing. May Hraesvelg's mighty winds arrive to you as light guiding breezes.

The drawings in this post are from the manuscripts here (XVIIIth c.) and here (XVIIth c.). Feel free to click ahead and practice ye olde Icelandic.

This musical adventure through Iceland is made possible with the participation of the lovely and crazy people at awesome Kuku Campers, and with the participation of CloudMusic Ukuleles, which are the ukes you see me wandering and musing with here on the island!

The edge of the Fjord and a view on the bridge leading to Akureyri

The edge of the Fjord and a view on the bridge leading to Akureyri

 

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Who knew - Myvatn Baths, Iceland

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Who knew - Myvatn Baths, Iceland

 
 
 

If you travel completely unprepared, first of all, hi, hello, welcome to the club. And also, you've probably noticed there are two sides to our globetrotting coin. First, it's great to be surprised... (and that really helps the song-writing!)

But then again, sometimes, it's possible to really feel a fool, not to have packed one of the most important things you had no idea you needed.

But I mean, who knew those were important here?

Route 1, on the way to Reykjahlíð...

Route 1, on the way to Reykjahlíð...

 

Iceland's freezing, and driving through it in the cold season is certainly beautiful, but won't make anyone feel like undressing. Then again, travelling here, you may need something more than just warm clothes...

Who knew, who knew? Who knew that on this globe's coldest isle, who knew, that where it's cold all the while,

who knew, who knew, that in the land of 'Vatnajökull', where ice comes in the hugest of chunks,

you must pack as a goldenest rule, your...

 
 

...swimming trunks.

It's clearly no secret to anyone who has previously opened an Iceland guide of some sort: you need to pack a pair.

Personally, I didn't know. I mean, I'm travelling to the icy-est, harshest place I've ever set foot, and I'm an idiot for not packing swimming trunks ? ... Yes.

Iceland is located on a rift of continental plates which means: volcanoes, and also, very hot water. In the 'Mývatn Nature Baths' for example, North of the island, you swim in naturally heated water, which is brought up from the ground at about 250°C. Luckily for swimmers, with and without swimming trunks, it is cooled with a sort of circular system before it arrives in the baths. Bit hot otherwise.

Finally useful information on this Blog ! The Mývatn Baths opening times. No mention of swimming trunks though. Turns out you need some.

Finally useful information on this Blog ! The Mývatn Baths opening times. No mention of swimming trunks though. Turns out you need some.

 

You can go for a swimm in Mývatn,

You can stand on Strokkur, and then Boum,

You'll fly in the air, flown by the 'Geyseir'... *splash*

Who knew, who knew, who knew, that on the island of glaciers and frost

You must pack a pair at all cost

So come over to a hot pot for a small dunk

But don't forget your...

Something you don't get from my sing-song is the wonderful view! But in the cold season, there's approximately 25 minutes of daylight per day -which really isn't enough for me to get the song right. So I copy/pasted a low res picture from the official website of the baths. There you go. What a view (that I didn't see) !

Who knows, who knows, who knows who this guy is...

Who knows, who knows, who knows who this guy is...

 

Another couple of things not too well transmitted by video/audio media: the slight smell of eggs which comes from the sulphur in the water, and also, how incredibly soft that water makes your skin ! Really, a swim in there and you are once again graced with skin as delicate as a baby's. That's the magic of Icelandic minerals.

Now is a good time for another photo. Too bad I don't have any. So I guess, I'll just share the other side of the sign. Interesting information on there too. And that way, I don't have to go on about it myself.

'Enjoy, Relax, Experience, Become Super-Extra-Soft'

 

The Song Glossary - what am I going on about?

Vatnajökull:  A big big ice cap on the island, actually the biggest of them all! It's cold, it's impressive, and you don't need swimming trunks there.

Mývatn: Hot baths these adventures are talking about in this very post. Hopefully you noticed.

Strokkur: The most active geyser of all geysers. Situated right next to the geyser called Geysir, that gave its name to all other geysers. That name being geysers.

Hot pot: Very common throughout the country, these are small pools of naturally hot water, made out of all sorts of things, stones, concrete, ex-agricultural tubs... they're warm and cosy, and often come with a view (yes, unlike my video)

Thanks for reading!

These Ukulele Road Trips are travelling through this majestic island of Ice and Fire with a fine van from Kuku Campers

and singing about the whole thing with CloudMusic ukes - tested to be hot-bath-water-resistant.

 
"floats away..."

"floats away..."

 

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Kuku Cooking On The Go - Iceland

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Kuku Cooking On The Go - Iceland

 
 
 

All travellers know this. Exploring Iceland in the cold and misty season is not to be taken lightly. You need to make sure you have everything you need to not die. That includes, of course, having a heated mode of transport that you won't freeze in. If you don't know that before landing in Iceland, hopefully a couple of locals will explain the importance of it to you before you get on the road (...thank goodness for the conversation with Ásgeir and Hjalti).

The trusted heated steed of these ukulele adventures in Iceland. And a guy waving a ukulele.

The trusted heated steed of these ukulele adventures in Iceland. And a guy waving a ukulele.

 

A very important part of keeping warm, is eating warm food. And another part of it is the nice warm fuzzy feeling you get when the food is delicious. If you're lucky and/or super smart, you'll be touring the land of easily upset giants with a mobile house that has everything you need to do both! And as I was pretty lucky, I did just that.

The kitchen, living room, bedroom and music room all parked next to the Borgarnes Church

The kitchen, living room, bedroom and music room all parked next to the Borgarnes Church

 

So, to demonstrate survival with a taste for tasty food, a first in these Ukulele adventures, a cooking show straight from the Icelandic roads:

 
 

As you can see, the trick is to adjust the dosage of the butter.

Not only is it a useful and probably necessary way to survive, cooking can also be a welcome distraction from the vast stretches of fog.

"Fog!"

"Fog!"

 

If ever it feels like you're driving on the moon, and the landscape is more repetitive than a charts song, except with lots of fog, just pull over, and make soup.

 
 

The trick is to use an instant soup, and then add small bits of random vegetables. It counts. It's cooking. And the bread was fried in butter, so, definitely, cooking.

Not vital, but also very important: cleaning up after the warmth of the food has settled into your body.

Keeping the workstation orderly: number two priority

Keeping the workstation orderly: number two priority

 

These Ukulele Road Trips are cooking, driving, and all round adventure-ing with Kuku Campers, the life saving exploring-enabling very nice people from Reykjavik., and playing and singing with CloudMusic ukes, perfect for misty mornings. And afternoons.

Support the adventure by donating or on Patreon !

 
another picture of the fog, in case you mist it

another picture of the fog, in case you mist it

 

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